Tuesday, January 26, 2016

Freiburg memories: Theaterläden and Weingarten

When I arrived in Freiburg, Cinemaxx was still a parking lot. The modern buildings there today replaced more modest structures seen in this picture. You can also see them at the right of the theater (the big building on the left) in the picture below, taken from the cathedral spire around 1994.

The buildings were not much to look at and were probably intended to be provisional anyway, a bit like the train station nearby. The trees to the right behind the theater are where the parking lot was. A relationship of mine started there – in a large pile of leaves.

Not much else has changed in this photo that is visible, but I would like to draw your attention to the concrete high-rises in the background. Zoom in, and you see that they were a dreary gray. Today they have at least been painted and/or clad with attractive metal siding (see this photo). The change is significant because it shows how many decades it took for Germany just to build up basic infrastructure without being able to focus on aesthetics. But since I got here, the focus has increasingly been on aesthetics, and the built environment has become noticeably more attractive.

Monday, January 25, 2016

Freiburg memories: the clown

I remember two "public figures" from my first few years in Freiburg. One of them is the famous beggar from the fountain at Martinstor, a descendent of a Swiss nobleman; the other, a clown who used to perform on Saturdays in the center of town. His entire show consisted of two things: walking behind other people and caricaturing their gait; and acting as though he was pulling streetcars and buses. The amazing thing was that the streetcar and bus drivers always played along.

Sunday, January 24, 2016

Freiburg memories: Basler Tor

Basler Tor is a weird place. It is basically a collection of prefab concrete high-rises. Little information is available about its history online, but there is no indication that any historic gate or anything was ever here. Visitors to the city might believe that Basler Tor sounds like one of the remaining historic city gates (the two that survive are Schwabentor and Martinstor), but in fact Basler Tor was quite far out of town in the Middle Ages. I don't believe anything was here before these structures were built. In fact, the photo below – apparently taken when construction had just been completed – seems to indicate that the road to Merzhausen did not even run straight to the train station; there is now a main artery where those cars are parked on the left. The image also seems to have been taken from a balcony on a building preceding the current Victoria complex.

(Note: I had saved this image locally for later use, but I now cannot find it at all on the web in order to source it properly. If anyone knows where this is from, please drop me a comment below.)
It's extremely ugly, but this is where I had my first two apartments (WG-Zimmer) in Freiburg. I rode to work every day from here down the street on the bottom right of the photo. Practically everything has changed. The small buildings on the right have given way to modern office complexes. You can also still see the Renault sign in yellow. The slogan was "Ein Renault vumm Schneider isch ä Plaisir," which has not been saved for posterity on the Internet.

Quite possibly, travelers between Freiburg and Merzhausen went down Lorettostrasse – and also Reiterstrasse. As this photo shows, there used to be a direct connection between Reiterstrasse and the intersection below; the photo shows the intersection around 1994, with a view of Lorettoberg, from my balcony within Basler Tor. At this point, there was no longer a connection between Reiterstrasse and that intersection. But Merzhauserstrasse had already become a four-lane road where cars are parked above.

Today, Merzhauserstrasse only has two lanes but also a streetcar running down the middle – and the rails are on a grassy area (see this photo). Note that there are no bike lanes in the image above; people had to ride their bikes on the streets and sidewalks without any special area. Now compare that to the photo under the previous link.

My first apartment (WG) in Basler Tor was where the founders of Crash, a local heavy metal bar, first lived. My housemates told me the place used to look even more run down, but it was modest even at the time. I had a tiny room (12 m2, around 120 square feet). In the building next door, I found a 20 m2 room and decided to move. For me, the decision was easy, but the Germans all thought the move was a big deal. The landlord in the old place freaked out and wrote me a nasty letter, saying he would not have rented to me at all if he had known that I was only going to be there for half a year. The other three people in the old flat also reacted with dismay, saying they didn't know I wasn't happy with my room; they seem to take it personally, but for me the room was just too small. And the woman in the new flat – the daughter of some local farmers who had a stand at Cathedral Square – also was quite nervous to be moving in with someone she didn't know. It was all a culture shock for me. And incidentally, after I moved out of my first apartment, a guy moved in who was the DJ from Stuttgart – the one that had played the Brazilian song that Fanta 4, a group of rappers from Stuttgart, used in their famous first hit.

I wasn't very happy in either apartment. In the second one, I didn't really even have a proper bedroom door; my housemate's father had installed a sliding partition between the dining area and the living area to create a separate room out of the latter. But anyone sitting at the dinner table could hear everything going on in my bedroom and vice versa. Apartments were extremely expensive and very hard to find at all at the time, so these were the conditions in my first three years in Freiburg.

I'll close with an image just 100 meters down from Baslertor of a small house and a small vineyard on Lorettoberg. My daughter concurs: nothing here has changed at all over the past two decades.

Saturday, January 23, 2016

Freiburg memories: Schlossberg, Gerberau, and Fischerau

In my first semester as an exchange student in Freiburg, I continued taking Dutch classes. My Dutch teacher was a guy my age, and he told me I should meet his wife, who was also from the States. I went over to their place in Gerberau, a street in the pedestrian zone of downtown Freiburg, and we took a trip through the black forest in their Volkswagen golf. They had to park their car more than five minutes away, which I found to be absolutely bizarre at the time.

They were a funny couple. He (a non-smoker) would hide her cigarettes. She would then say "two weeks" – meaning that was how long he wasn't gonna get any. I also remember learning the word "tranchieren" at their place, so we must have carved a turkey there for Thanksgiving or Christmas once. The Dutchman also used to boycott shops when the service was bad, which was practically everywhere. (When I recently reminded him of this, he couldn't remember.)

Their apartment was really cool. It had a hatch that opened up to the roof, where we sometimes hung out. When I showed this picture, taken from their roof, to my daughter, she could not believe her eyes – no wind turbines, no hiking tower. In fact, the entire Schlossberg arena was developed for hikers sometime in the late 1990s. There used to be a citadel up top, which the French razed when occupying the city centuries ago. Now, you can at least view the foundations and get an idea of how big it was. But when I arrived in Freiburg, none of that had really been developed as a park.

In the second picture, you get a glimpse of Gerberau. I believe one of those buildings has the following written on it still:

Wenn dieses Haus so lange steht,
bis aller Neid und Haß vergeht,
dann bleibt's fürwahr so lange stehn,
bis diese Welt wird untergehn.

Yet another rather unlikable saying: "if this building is still standing when envy and hate are gone, it will probably have remained standing until the end of the world." Not exactly something I would put on my building, but successful Germans tend to be rather paranoid about everyone else being "envious" even today. It's their way of not wanting to share.

This street was historically the first one outside the city wall. Called Tanners Road, it was where leather and textile were processed. As a result, the water (which is no longer visible under the street) was dirty. (Ironically, my friends lived above an Asian carpet shop – one of the few stores on that street that is still there today.) This is what it looks like today.

And this is Fischerau, one street removed. Here, the water was still clean, so you could eat the fish. Fish Road is now home to numerous specialty shops, such as a Japanese furniture store and a honey shop. You can easily imagine what Gerberau might look like today if it had water running down it. Fischerau is Freiberg's Little Venice. I make sure to take everyone down this street when they visit Freiburg.

And by the way, I am still in contact with my old Dutch teacher and his wife. As chance would have it, we will all three be moving away from Freiburg in 2017 – me, for good and them probably until they retire.

Friday, January 22, 2016

Freiburg memories: Augustinerplatz

When I arrived in Freiburg in 1992, Augustinerplatz had not yet become the major meeting place that it now is in the warm season. Today, it is packed with young people when the weather is good (see this photo). The owner of Capri, a café/bar at the edge of the square, recently told me that, as far as he can remember, the square became a huge place to hang out at the end of the 1990s. A friend of mine who used to work at the café in the mid-90s told me last night that he remembers selling people bottles of beer, and they would then sit outside – but there were not so many as there are today. One reason may be that you could still park cars on the square in the 1980s. It may have taken citizens a decade to become accustomed to going there.

By the time the square had become a popular hangout, I had kids and no longer did much hanging out in the evening – so I was quite shocked to see that poor people came through collecting bottles, which they could return for the deposit. In a way, I guess that's great – another source of income, and at least the bottles don't lie around getting broken. But it still left a weird taste in my mouth.

The square has the largest section of the historic city wall that still exists. Notice that it is an opening to a parking garage, and you can also see the public toilets on the left (they are quite smelly). The photo was taken in the mid-90s.

Here is another view, where you can see the (still unrenovated) Augustin Cloister (the big yellow building). Look closely, and you can see that the playground behind the trees did not yet have any gate separating it from the square. As the place became a hangout for drunk young people, the gate needed to be added to prevent these folks from spilling over into the playground at night. I have fond memories of going there with my kids.

Thursday, January 21, 2016

Freiburg memories: Schlappen and Bermuda Triangle

The first bar I visited in Freiburg was Schlappen – in mid September 1992. The sign is visible just behind the street light on the left. The word is generally understood to mean "slipper," but it could also mean someone who is exhausted – there is no slipper or other footwear on the sign.

As you see from the picture, this street divides up as a Y-junction. When I arrived in Freiburg, I do not believe there was a specific name for this place, but it became known later as the Bermuda Triangle. A quick Google search indicates that Bermuda Triangle was not widely used as a place name before 2005.

The Salatstube that you see in the center of the picture later moved to Schwarzwald-City (the closest thing downtown Freiburg has to a mall) and was replaced by a Burger King. Across the street from Schlappen was also a disco, and there was another one down the street.

By the late 2000s, this area had become a hangout for students. Increasingly, drunk people became violent. Eventually, alcohol drinking was banned from the Triangle, and a shoe store has replaced Burger King. I believe the Triangle has calmed down.

Schlappen remains, but it was renovated about a decade ago (not sure when). When it reopened, it began stressing the fact that the building was constructed over an 11th century latrine, which you can now see (you couldn't before) when you go to the john. When the weather is good, tables stand where the bikes were in the picture above.

Wednesday, January 20, 2016

Freiburg memories: Studentensiedlung (my dorm)

I came to Freiburg in 1992 as a student for one year. This was the view of the dorms from the stairwell on the 11th floor in my building.

Not much to look at, but the flat I shared with a Canadian was pretty cool.

This is what my building looked like, and I was on the penultimate floor to the top.

The building down at the bottom is the administration for all of the dorms. One morning, I locked myself out of my room – doors in Germany automatically lock when they close, and I wasn't used to that yet – so I had to go get the Hausmeister to let me back in. His office hour (singular!) was literally from 8-9 AM, and I arrived a few minutes before 9. He asked me why I had come so late, and I assured him I would lock myself out earlier next time. It was my first taste of local unfriendliness so appropriately (and unintentionally) expressed by the local saying, Es gibt Badische und Unsymbadische (meaning, essentially, if you're not from here, we don't like you).

But at least I haven't locked myself out of my own home since then – 23 years and counting.

If the building doesn't look like much, maybe this will make you feel better – the view of the nearby park from a tower (my dorm is visible on the water about three quarters over to the right):

Not much has changed here over the past 25 years, so there's not much to add. Couples had not yet begun attaching padlocks to the bridge over the lake, but otherwise it looks the same today.

Monday, January 11, 2016

Freiburg memories: train station

Vaguely, I remember the old train station in Freiburg. According to the German Wikipedia, Freiburg's train station was the first one completed after World War II – not surprisingly, given the city's proximity to France and its position within the then-French occupational zone. But the building was not much to look at. Originally conceived only as a provisional structure, it served Freiburg nonetheless for half a century.

This is what it looked like when I entered Freiburg through it in September 1992. That picture shows a construction site over to the left, where the new hotel is. Here is another view from 1970.
Landesarchiv Baden-Württemberg
Staatsarchiv Freiburg
Bestellsignatur: W 134 Nr. 084009a
Permalink: http://www.landesarchiv-bw.de/plink/?f=5-131972
Fotograf: Willy Pragher
As you can see, you walked out of the building and straight onto the street. But this photo is my favorite. The hotel is almost finished in that picture from 1992. It is very close to what I first saw in Freiburg.

A few years after I arrived, the city replaced it with the modern building we have today. It is further from the street, includes a mall, and has a tower with photovoltaics on the southern façade. At the top, there is a club where you can dance overlooking the town, and below it you can have brunch on Sunday – including a chocolate fountain. I was once interviewed there by BBC World. I took the picture below from the main solar tower towards the north. You can see the smaller tower on the left, which also has solar on the façade.

And here is the main Solar Tower as seen from the streetcar bridge:

Sunday, January 10, 2016

Freiburg memories: Konzerthaus

As mentioned in yesterday's post, the Blue Bridge now leads to the Concert Hall. When the building was opened in the mid-1990s, I sang on stage. A number of the musicians I worked with had trouble participating because they had opposed the project, like quite a few Freiburg citizens who continue to oppose the modernization of the city. With some of these musicians, I also gave concerts at some protest events against the project (I was neither particularly for or against it, but just having fun making music).

Many people wanted the money devoted to better kindergartens, etc. The project was originally called the KTS (Kultur und Tagungsstätte). At some point, the name was changed, and the protesters kept the name KTS for their own counter project, which still exists in Vauban.

This is what it looked like when I arrived in Freiburg in September 1992 – and this was also the first thing that I saw coming out of the train station. I specifically remember it being a bunch of metal rods sticking out of the ground, so the picture must have been shot a few months before I arrived.

Friday, January 8, 2016

Freiburg memories: the Blue Bridge

I will remember the Blue Bridge. When I moved to Freiburg, the connection for cars had just been torn down (see this photo from 1992) to make it solely a pedestrian's bridge (including cyclists, of course). It leads straight from the Sacred Heart church in Stühlinger (visible in the second photo) to the new Konzerthaus (visible in the background of the top photo), which was only just barely a construction site when I arrived in Freiburg.

Officially renamed the Wiwilí Bridge in 2003 (after Freiburg's Nicaraguan partner city), it is now a popular place for young people to hang out. The bridge crosses over the main train tracks in town (directly overlooking central station, in fact). I have been here so long that I can remember when nobody ever thought of sitting on top, much less walking up there.

When I came out of the train station, the blue bridge was one of the first things I saw – on 15 September 1992.

Thursday, January 7, 2016

Freiburg memories

This year will be my last full year in Freiburg, Germany. In the late summer of 2017, I'm moving to Berlin. By that point, I will have spent 25 years in Freiburg and the area.

I therefore like to revive this basically defunct private blog to share some photos and memories. What better picture to start with than the one I have had outside my window for the past seven years. I always wanted to have an apartment with Münsterblick. It's even nicer with the complete panorama of the city against the backdrop of the Black Forest.

This is what I woke up to this morning:

And after my shower.